Frequently Asked Questions : FAQ
Below please find our section on FAQ's. If you do not find an answer to your question please contact us by submitting a form on the Contact page.
Q - If I take lessons and continue to work on my swing, will I start to hook with the No Bananas Driver?
A - In most cases, no. All the No Bananas drivers are designed primarily to correct the habits of those who regularly, or even radically, slice or push their drives. With a few lessons (or a club-fitting session) that may involve a minor change or two in your grip, stance, and swing along with a bit of practice the habitual slicer should be able to learn rather quickly to hit a controlled draw or fade with a No Bananas Driver that is the aim or goal. Generally, it is far easier, and far less time-consuming, to accomplish that goal with a No Bananas Driver than it is with more conventional clubs. For most truly radical slicers, we will probably recommend a No Bananas Driver with an offset hosel. For golfers whose inclinations to slice or push-fade the ball are less frequent or extreme, we will probably suggest one with a non-offset hosel. But in neither case, is the No Bananas Driver intended (or inclined) to create someone who hooks the ball. Stop in or give us a call for more information and consultation.
Q - What does "No Bananas" mean?
A - A "banana ball" is a shot that bends to the right, often even way to the right, for a right-handed player and the other way around for someone who plays left-handed. "Banana Ball" is a colloquial name for what we otherwise call a slice. Years ago, such a shot was given its name by only God knows whom some anonymous distraught slicer himself or just as probably his partner, or some half-friendly opponent who had finally seen enough of this shot in which a ball flies high, or low, on a wide, bending trajectory that takes it from a preferred target-line over the appropriate fairway and sends it not to the edge of the rough, but well beyond it, or through or over a line of trees, down into a ravine, well into a water hazard or adjoining fairway, and too often out of bounds. Over 85% of golfers suffer from some form of the Banana Ball. You even see them occasionally on the Professional circuit.
Our clubs, properly named "No Bananas", are designed to cure, and even to eliminate, that banana ball. But "No Bananas" doesn't just mean anti-slice. The No Bananas line of clubs features other elements of design that are meant to improve your game. No Bananas irons feature a wide sole with an extremely low center of gravity that is designed to enhance trajectory and maximize carry. A four-way cambered sole reduces drag in the impact zone. Click on any of the No Bananas products to learn more.
Q - “For what type of player are the No bananas clubs designed?
A - No Bananas golf equipment is designed for golfers of all skill levels to enjoy. If you are among the 85% of the golfing population who tend to push, slice, and or substantially fade the ball or, for that matter, if you are just plain inconsistent at any level, you can greatly benefit from the use of most any No Bananas product. Even single-digit handicappers sometimes slice or push their shots. If your missed shots are most often sliced or pushed, and you would like to regularly hit a controlled fade or draw, a Draw-Bias No Bananas driver may encourage just the right amount of draw-spin for your swing and so, too, may No Bananas fairway metals, hybrids, and irons.
Q - How can I know if the No Bananas clubs are for me?
A - If you are among the 85% of today's (and, coincidentally, yesterday's) golfers who have a tendency to push, slice, or push-fade your shots, you may greatly benefit from all No Bananas products. But you can only answer your question with certainty if you try them out, hit some shots with them at the Bob Burns Golf Learning Center north of Appleton or if you e-mail us or give us a call.
Q - What makes the No Bananas Driver work? How do you justify or explain the claims you and others have made about it?
A - I assume you are referring to our claims that the No Bananas Driver will cure or straighten out a golfer's habitually slicing drives or, perhaps, you're simply wondering what it was that led Golf Digest to call the No Bananas Driver "The Ultimate Fix."
There are, of course, several things involved in correcting a golfer's habit of slicing the ball. Indeed, there is more than one way in which a golfer might do so. An inveterate slicer might undertake an extensive and time-consuming series of lessons to change his grip and swing, for example; lessons coordinated with and followed by some intensive and continuing practice. But short of such a regimen of lessons and practice (for which few golfers have the time, much less the ongoing commitment), there really isn't, or there hasn't been until recently a whole lot a golfer, of whatever skill-level, can do to correct those habitually slicing drives. Until recently, clubs (drivers, in particular) simply haven't been designed to address the slicing habits of the vast majority of golfers; and the No Bananas Driver was among the first to be designed from the get-go with these golfers specifically in mind.
What the design of the No Bananas Driver did, and continues to do, is to recognize up front that some 85% of golfers habitually slice or push-fade their tee-shots, and that few golfers have the time or the motivation to devote to radical and sustainable changes in their stances, grips, and swings. So the original No Bananas Driver, like each of its subsequent cousins, was designed specifically to take on those elements of the habitual slice that are addressable in the engineering of the club things like the angle at which the vast majority of golfers strike the ball, the spin-rate they impart to the ball, and the usual trajectory of their shots.
The No Bananas Driver thus works as serious, independent tests in laboratories and on courses and practice ranges have shown in large part because of the extent or degree of its built-in closed face (up to 7° in the offset model of the 460cc driver) but also, in part, because we have recognized that not all habitual slicers are alike. Some slice or push-fade their drives more radically than others. Some have faster swing-speeds than others. Some naturally carry their hands differently than do others. Some have smaller hands than others. Some have shorter swings than others. Some hit their drives higher than others. And so on.
So that while a 7° closed face alone may be quite appropriate for Slicer-A, for the more radical Slicer-B, with a slightly slower swing-speed, that 7° closed face by itself may prove to be insufficient to the desired correction. Lets say that during a custom club-fitting session, which involves hitting numerous shots with different clubs, it turns out that what Slicer-B needs, in addition to the substantially closed face, is the added advantage of the No Bananas model that features a ½" offset hosel that provides him or her with an extra split-second on the downswing before the face of the club squares to the ball. Or maybe what Slicer-B further needs to correct his slice is a shaft with a greater flex and a lower kick-point, or a thinner (or thicker) grip with a different texture or softness.
There is no doubt that the built-in closed face of the No Bananas Driver works to correct a habitual slice (and that built-in closed face is available in varying degrees among the several models of the No Bananas Driver). But for many slicing golfers, the closed face by itself may not be enough to provide a cure. That's why we have designed both offset and non-offset models of the driver. But it's also why we urge any interested habitual slicer to do more, far more, than buy a driver off the rack. That's why we urge any interested slicer to try the driver out, along with other models of the same club, one with a different hosel (offset or non-offset), a different shaft (of different weights, lengths, flexes, and kick-points), and with different grips. And thats why we urge any interested slicer to experiment with the adjustable weight-screws on the more recent models of the No Bananas Driver.
I have only begun to answer your question about why the No Bananas Driver works or, for that matter, to explain or justify the claims we and others have made about it. But I hope I've given you some ideas about the kinds of things that are (and have been) involved in supporting those claims.
By way of suggesting some of the things I haven't covered, perhaps you would be interested in our most recent, brief characterization of the
The Classic 460cc, forged of Beta titanium, features a classically shaped head; a deep, 7° closed face; and two inset, adjustable weight-screws, one in the rear of the heel and the other in the rear of the toe, to enable you to customize your desired amount of draw or fade-spin and to enhance the trajectory of your drives. The Classic 460cc is available in two models, one with a ½" offset hosel and one without. The offset model is most appropriate for those who are habitual slicers or pushers. The non-offset model, with its built-in draw-bias, is probably most appropriate for mid and low-handicappers who wish to improve their ability to work the ball, particularly from right to left.
Available for right-handers in both offset and non-offset models, with a loft of 8°, 9°, 10.5°, or 12°; and for left-handers in an offset model with a loft of 10.5°. Standard grip: No Bananas Tour Wrap. Optional grips: No Bananas Wrap, No Bananas Dual Molded. Grip sizes: Ladies, Standard, Midsize, and Jumbo. Standard Shaft: Proprietary No Bananas Graphite Gold, with a weight of 55 grams, a Mid/Low kickpoint, and a soft tip. Recommended optional shafts: Aldila NV, Aldila NV Proto, UST V2, and Grafalloy Pro Launch Blue. Flex options: L, A, R, S, or X.
Q - I hit my three-wood reasonably straight, why do I only slice my driver?
A - We are often asked this question. Part, but only part, of the answer is a function of the comparative lengths of the shafts on the two clubs. Most three-woods are two to three inches shorter than long-shafted contemporary drivers. Another part of the answer, probably the most significant part, is a function of the loft on your three-wood. Most three-woods feature five degrees more loft than you find on a standard driver (15° on a three wood, compared to the most common 10° or 10.5° on the face of a driver). Basically, a clubface with a higher loft will launch the ball higher than a clubface of lower loft, and that higher launch-angle will also produce a greater backspin on the ball. This increased backspin typically counteracts (i.e. reduces) the sidespin produced by a lower-lofted club in this case, your driver. That unmediated sidespin, of course, is (along with the characteristics of your stance, grip, and swing) what produces your slicing drives.
Perhaps you have also noticed that you tend to hit your mid-irons (5, 6, and 7 irons) straighter than you hit your three-iron or four-iron. Maybe you have even noticed that you tend to hit those mid-irons straighter than you hit your short-irons (8 and 9 irons and wedges) that you tend to pull your short-irons more often, or more radically, than you do your mid-irons. The same basic principles apply. The higher loft on the short-irons, which further increases backspin, often negates sidespin entirely; and the shorter shafts sometimes lead you to rotate the clubface even beyond square at the point of impact with the ball.
Q - Do I need to spend $1,000 to $2,000 on a set of golf clubs?
A - No. We carry many good and affordable sets of clubs for customers who do not want to spend a lot of money. Stop into our showroom and learn more about the golf clubs available in your price range, or browse our website. We guarantee that we sell something for everyone.
Q - Why buy women's golf clubs?
A - Special women's models of clubs are designed to meet the needs of women golfers. Ladies clubs are generally 1" shorter in fit, have a softer flex and lower kick points. Ladies drivers are generally 12 degrees, as opposed to 8, 9 or 10. Our golf associates are always willing to answer any questions you may have about the game of golf, equipment, apparel and training. Don't hesitate to ask us anything!
Any combination of metals used to produce a clubhead. Most alloys found in clubheads today feature a large portion of Zinc and Aluminum and may also contain steel, beryllium, nickel, copper, titanium or several metals in various combinations. Most alloys will be found low priced box sets sold at major department stores. For a new golfer the names may sound enticing. For example the driver may be labeled "Titanium Matrix" However, this particular clubhead will likely be constructed from 98% Alloy and 2% Titanium. Alloy material is among the least expensive for manufactures and will be found in most low-end products.
Back Weight is typically located on the sole and behind the face of the club. This technology is designed to lower the center of gravity, which will in return increase the launch angle. Back Weighting is used in manufacturing woods, hybrids, irons, and putter.
Backspin is the backward rotation of a golf ball in flight around a horizontal axis imparted by the golf club. Backspin is necessary at any level to launch the ball. Bob Burns +/- custom ground wedges feature a milled face, a design element to increase backspin.
The Balance point is where a shaft's weight is evenly distributed in both directions when rested on a single point. This technology is most commonly found in putters. In fact, all Bob Burns Putt Mark Putters are face balanced
This type of putter is long enough to position the grip just above the player's waist, at the belly button. This is designed and has been proven to create a true pendulum stroke. Most belly putters are 40" in length, although these putters are available in several lengths, including chest putters.
Beryllium Copper (BeCu)
This is an alloy used to manufacture irons and wedges. This material is more dense and offers a similar soft feel to a forged club. Not as common in today's manufacturing due to high costs.
This term typically refers to the alloy of a driver head. This is a heavier alloy of most cast titanium.
Describes club heads constructed of two different materials. For example, a stainless steel club head with brass or copper inserts in the sole. This manufacturing process is designed to lower the COG.
The sticking face of an iron or wedge.
Blade Style Head
Also referred to as muscle face or forged irons due to a possible concentration of weight directly behind the center of the club face. This particular club head is best suit for the accomplished player.
A high strength element added to some graphite shafts to increase tip strength. Up until the mid 1990's, Boron shafts were the most expensive on the market. Now newer NANO technologies have implemented for consistency and will typically bare the highest market price.
The measurement from the leading edge of the clubface to the ground line (point at which the sole touches the ground) Wedges typically have the most bounce in a set. The sandwedge, typically offers the most bounce in a set. The sand wedge was first introduced by Gene Sarazan who welded a small of piece of metal to the back of his wedge. This was done to help cushion the blow by taking more sand when the clubface made contact with the ball.
When looking at the sole of a wedge, you will notice the trailing edge hangs beneath the leading edge. This angle in relation to the ground plane is called bounce angle.
This term is commonly used when referring to the Bulge and Roll. The Bulge is the face curvature of a wood club, measured from heel to toe. Designed to induce corrective spin to shots hit on the toe or heel. Where as the roll is the face curvature of the wood club when measure from top to bottom.
This is the plastic or rubber cap at the end of a grip. Also called the "End Cap", referring to the end of the grip.
The radius measurement of the sole of a golf club. A sole can be cambered from heel to toe, and or trailing edge to leading edge. Camber is a design feature more commonly seen in game improvement golf clubs.
This is design element where weight is distributed toward the perimeter of the head. Perimeter weighting will promote a square face at impact and by add more weight to the sole area will lower the CG, encouraging a higher launch angle. Cavity back irons became popular in the mid 1980's and make up more than 80% of what's available on the market today.
Center of Gravity
This refers to the point in a club head where all of the points of balance intersect. The lower Center of Gravity (CG), the higher the ball flight and typically more straight. Modern drivers feature a MAX CG where the club stretches as far a 4 ½" from front to back. Higher CG clubs will produce a lower ball flight which will be more difficult to hit straight. Adversely, popular putters today will have a high CG to promote less backspin for a truer roll.
More typically seen in putters. Here, the center of the shaft enters the head near the center.
Parts used to assemble golf clubs. The three primary components include: head, shaft, and grip.
The hardness of a golf ball, identified by a number. A higher number typically requires more force to compress therefore is better suit from higher swing speeds. A lower compression ball will compress more easily when struck and therefore are generally preferred by those with slower swing speeds.
Inside diameter measurement of a grip, which determines the size of the grip. Core size does not match shaft butt size. A standard men's grip is typically .580" - .600", and a ladies grip is .560" - .580".
The top of a driver, fariway wood or hybrid. This is what a golfer will see at his/her address position.
Cubic Centimeters (cc's)
Measurement of volume of a driver, fairway wood, and or hybrid. Over the last few years, the USGA has put a legal limit on the overall driver size at 460cc.
Curved Shaft (Bent Shaft)
A shaft designed for use in putters with no hosel. These shafts feature a bend within 5 inches from the tip, which creates offset and face balancing.
A club with a deep face should measure with a higher than average distance from the sole to the top of the crown. In most modern 460cc drivers, this would measure out to be about 2½ inches. A club with this particular design will feature a higher CG and will influence a low ball flight.
Injection of material into a preformed die to form a club head. This process is generally used on lower priced heads such as zinc alloy irons and aluminum alloy woods. It is also commonly used on putters made from brass and zinc.
The club is used to tee off with from par 4 and par 5 holes. For most, this is the longest and lowest hitting club in the bag. Driver lofts are available from 7 - 12 degrees.
A muscle back or hollow body head design. Similar in looks to a hybrid club. Driving irons are also known as utility clubs and are most commonly used to replace a long iron and or fairway wood.
Face (or Blade)
The striking face of an iron.
The position of the clubface relative to the intended line of ball flight. For right-handed golfers, a square face angle is properly aligned directly to the target. An open face angle is aligned right of target and will result in a push or fade. A closed face will result in a pull or draw.
Modern club manufacturing will use a face insert in an iron or putter. The small percentage of irons that use this technology are those made of stainless steel and use a titanium face insert. Today more that 50% of the putters todayâ€™s market incorporate some type of polymer insert for an incredible soft feel.
Generally black and made of plastic, this ring sits on the top of the hosel on most woods, hybrids and irons. Not just for cosmetics, ferrules relieve stress from the shaft when the club head strikes the ball or the ground.
A lie angle considered to be flat would approximately 2 degrees less of standard. Note, when a club is built longer, the lie angle becomes more upright. The opposite is true when shortening a shaft.
Flex refers to the relative bending properties of a golf club shaft. Most manufacturers identify a flex with a letter: L (ladies), A (senior), R (regular), S (stiff), and X (extra stiff). Flex is not to be confused with kick point, bend point or launch angle.
Flexible Face (COR)
A golf clubs face is designed to flex upon ball impact, potentially sending the ball a lot farther than normal.
Head designs where the weight positioning shifts from one club to the next.
431 Stainless Steel
Stainless steel used in iron and putter heads has no more than 20% carbon, 15-17% chromium, and 1.25-2.5% nickel with the rest being mostly iron. This is the most common material used in the construction of high quality irons ands is softer than the 17-4 stainless steel.
A method of woods manufacturing where the body and sole of the club are forged from 100% pure titanium.
Producing a golf club head from a series of forging dies stamping the head into its final shape. Forged heads are made from a softer metal than cast heads and require hand finishing and chrome plating.
Gear Effect (VGE)
The effect that tends to cause a ball hit toward the toe or heel side of face center to curve back to the intended target line.
A putter (or iron) that has an extremely offset hosel.
Synthetic filament material used for shaft and head production, produced through a series of heating steps. Graphite fibers may differ greatly in strength and modulus.
Dark, almost black, finish applied to the surface of iron heads for cosmetic reasons or to prevent rusting of a carbon steel head.
A type of club head design with weight positioned toward the heel and toe of the clubhead, resulting in stabilizing the clubhead (and produce straighter shots) on off-center impacts.
A shaft material stiffer than standard graphite. The higher the modulus of graphite, the lower its compression strength.
High Polish Finish
Shiny (mirror) finish applied to stainless steel iron heads through a series of polishing operations.
A wood with a closed face angle. Hook face woods may help players who slice hit the ball straight.
Horizontal Flow Weighting
Distributing weight from club to club in a set of irons, with the highest concentration of weight moving from the toe of the longer irons to the heel of the shorter irons.
The entry point of the shaft into the head on any golf club.
A club design with the hosel toward the center of the clubface in an attempt to reduce head twisting.
The front edge of the clubface.
The angle from the shaft to the ground line when the club is measured in normal playing position.
Upward force on a golf ball as it flies.
A shaft that falls within 3.80-4.24 ounces in steel or alloy shafts and within 3.20-3.60 ounces in composite shafts.
The angle of the clubface that controls trajectory and affects distance.
Low Balance Point (LBP)
A shaft with a high percentage of its weight toward the tip.
Low Profile Head
An iron or wood head that is shorter from topline to soleline than typical.
A type of putter head identified by its broad appearance from front to back when positioned at address.
A steel alloy harder than are non-maraging steels such as 17-4 and 15-5. Maraging steel is commonly used in clubface applications, rather than in entire club heads.
A black corrosion-resistant plating applied to some club heads.
A club face milled to .001" for flatness to promote smoother roll.
Any wood with a clubhead around 185cc in size.
The measure of a fiber's stiffness or resistance to bending. The higher the modulus, the stiffer the material.
A club whose construction does not allow it to be played in any event (either professional, amateur or club-level) as sanctioned by USGA Rules.
The distance from the forward most point of the hosel to the leading edge of the blade. Offset will help a player to align the club face with the target, reducing a slice, and may produce higher ball flight.
Oversize Iron Head
Any iron head larger 43 millimeters and a blade length of 75 mm.
Oversize Wood Head
A wood head with volume greater than 200 cc's.
Redistributing weight on a club head to the heel and toe in an attempt to stabilize the club on all types of impacts.
Iron sets with longer irons having more offset and shorter irons having less.
Head design where weight positioning shifts from one club to the next. For example, a #1 iron may have more weight concentrated on its toe, a #2 iron slightly less, and so on. Also called Flow Weighting.
Raised areas on the soles of metal woods, lowering the center of gravity of the club and providing less resistance as the club travels through the turf.
A name given to any number of clubs that combine features of a wood and an iron. "Rescue" is also the trademarked name of this type of club from TaylorMade that began the trend.
The measure of face curvature from crown to sole on woods.
Light gray finish applied to the some iron and wood heads. Applied using an air compressor and sandblasted with aluminum oxide sand.
"Brushed" finish applied to some stainless steel iron heads and metal wood soles by finishing belts.
Lines or grooves on the face of an iron or wood club.
17-4 Stainless Steel
Stainless steel alloy used in Iron and metal wood head construction. 17-4 is no more than 0.07% Carbon, between 15 and 17% Chromium, 4% Nickel, 2.75% Copper, and 75% Iron and trace elements. Harder than 431 stainless steel.
Any wood or iron having a face height shorter than normal.
Titanium is used in wood heads manufactured with the formula 6Al-4V: these are 90% Titanium, 6% Aluminum and 4% Vanadium. Titanium is often used in oversize and larger heads.
The bottom or underside of any type of golf club. It is where the club rests on the ground in playing position.
Sole Weighted Iron
An iron head with the majority of its weight concentrated near the sole of the club, producing a lower center of gravity.
The measure of a sole from the leading edge to the trailing edge. A narrow sole is better from firmer ground; wide soles are helpful in getting the ball airborne from softer ground.
The curvature from the leading edge to the trailing edge.
Square (Box, "U") Grooves
Face lines or grooves pressed, cut, or cast into a rectangular shape.
Standard Size Wood
Any wood head with volume of around 150cc.
Standard Weight Shaft
A steel shaft within the range of 4.25-4.62 ounces.
Where the diameter of a steel shaft "steps up" noticeably to a larger diameter.
The pattern made by the sequence of steps of a steel shaft which vary by manufacturer and shaft model.
A club, usually an iron, with loft that is less than the standard specification for that club. Stronger lofted clubs tend to hit the ball lower and longer than standard lofts, but may sacrifice some control.
Alloys of steel that are stronger and lighter than 17-4 stainless.
A club's weight distribution around a fixed fulcrum point. The fulcrum point is typically 14" from the butt of the club. It is measured in alpha-numeric units such as D-1, D-2, and so on with higher letter-number units indicating more weight in the head relative to the grip.
Alloy used for wood heads that contains some Titanium, but a much larger amount of less expensive (generally Aluminum) alloys.
A shaft with a tip stiffer than the rest of the shaft. Tip stiff shafts are generally designed with harder swinging players in mind.
Club head metal primarily for woods with a higher strength-to-weight ratio than most steel alloys. See also Forged Titanium and 6-4 Titanium.
The top part of an iron blade, running from heel to toe visible to the golfer at address.
Measure of a shaft's resistance to twisting. Low torque shafts twist less and are recommended for stronger players.
The shape and height of a golf ball's flight in relation to its direction.
The back edge of the sole.
A club head comprised of three separate metals.
Clubs used to play the ball from a difficult lie. Trouble clubs often have unusual sole construction - perhaps rails - that lower the center of gravity. Trouble clubs may be irons, woods or hybrids.
A heavy steel/tungsten compound is used to add weight to a club head, either as a swing weighting material in the shaft or as a defined weight attached somewhere in/on the head.
Used in iron face structure, more pronounced than "V" grooves. See "Square Groove."
Composite shafts weighing less than 2.00 ounces or 65 grams.
A club's lie that is more upright than the standard specification for that particular head.
Face grooves pressed, cut, or cast into a "V" shape during club manufacture.
The speed of a golf ball.
Vertical Flow Weighting
Club set weighting with weight shifting vertically from a concentration of weight toward the sole of long irons to more traditional weighting on
The measurement of the size of a wood head as measured by liquid displacement.